Friday 12 November 2010

The Dark Side

As I´ve studied Brazil for some time, I have always known it is a country of contradictions. It may be home to some of the most stunning landscapes, wildest parties and friendliest people, but they coexist with a much crueler reality, of dangerous favelas, unemployment, drugs and crime. This latter, darker side of Brazil is ever present as you live your daily life here, especially in some of the neighbourhoods that surround me. You are told from the start “Cuidado minha filha, don´t take that route, get home before dark and always stay alert.” There is even a law that allows you to pass through red lights after 10pm, to avoid leaving motorists vulnerable to attack.

However, as a girl from South London, I think I´ve got my head screwed on. I don´t wander about here at night, as I´d never dream of doing that at home anyway. Here, I live far away from my friends and I´m vehemently independent, so if I want to go out, I have no qualms with jumping on a bus and getting there myself.  I must admit I was slightly terrified when I arrived here and the first news report I saw was of a daylight robbery on a bus in Fortaleza… but if you watched the news daily you wouldn´t leave the house. The buses are truly no problem at all, as long as you know your route and have your wits about you. It even makes me smile to think of the upper classes who wouldn´t even contemplate taking public transport here for fear of rubbing shoulders with Brazil´s uglier aspects, like the beggars and that are a permanent feature at the bus terminals.

But sometimes I must admit I´m naïve. I knew that Maracanaú, where we teach, was a high risk neighbourhood, but we´ve never witnessed a thing out of the ordinary. It wasn´t until a teacher at Rui Barbosa (the school we teach at on Wednesdays) was shot dead in her car two weekends ago that we began to realize we had been living in an area that truly has no law. “Yeah it was her ex-boyfriend” one of my 11 year old students tells me without batting an eyelid.  Apparently, murders through fits of jealousy are common. It was the fact that everyone knew exactly who had killed her that exasperated me, is he not afraid of prison? Apparently not – maximum sentence for murder is 30 years, and he could serve as little as 5 if he behaves well. It was quite a shock, as it always is when the two sides of Brazil collide.


Last week, the long anticipated sequel to one of Brazil´s finest depictions of its darker side, Tropa de Elite 2, was released. The first installment followed the story of Roberto Nascimento and his ‘elite squad’ of warrior police that are at war with the drug dealers of Rio´s deadliest favelas. The BOPE (Batalhão de Operações Policiais Especiais) are who you call when there is noone else that can handle the job.





They are a brutal force, a killing machine, leaving the bodies of bandidos spread across the city in their wake. But the film poses the question of whether their aggression is reasonable or not. It is right to torture and beat people´s brothers and sons into giving information, then setting them free to be killed by their own gang? What is the difference between a vagabundo that murders and a police force that does the same? Where is the line between a violent drugs lord and a student that sells weed on campus? We watch as innocent people are caught up in the BOPE’s operations and pay with their lives, and as Nascimento slowly loses his family and mind, consumed by the batalhão. It gave me goose bumps to witness such an atrocious reality, but the worst part is that it is true.

Tropa de Elite 2 takes things further. ‘This time, the enemy is different’, the tagline reads. The first film touched on petty corruption in the police force, but the second goes to town exposing the obscene corruption that sustains the crime in Rio from the military police to the state government, to the very Ministry of Defence. If the police are willing to steal, rape and murder those who are close to discovering the truth, there is no one left to call. Once again the chilling fact that the gripping story had its basis in truth that stings.

But don’t despair. There may be a long way to go, but every Brazilian in the audience that cheered when Nascimento gets his hands on the most corrupt of all politicians and tells him he will see him in court, proves that the vast majority of the population abhor what goes on in the lawless pockets of their country. They applaud Padilha’s exposure of what goes on in an attempt to change it. Thankfully, I´ve only crossed paths with people who are generous, open and pure of heart.  The dark side of Brazil is extremely dark, but the bright side is blinding.

Tuesday 26 October 2010

Jericoacoara

If Canoa Quebrada is a fine Chardonnay, Jericoacoara is ice cold Veuve Cliquot served in crystal flutes. From the moment we set out, we felt our trip was blessed... it truly was 4 days in paradise. It involved a bus, as always, that took us north past tiny farms and parched scrubland, glittering lakes and rocky peaks. Jeri is infact inaccessible by bus, a fact which I adored, as no one seems to have the heart to build an ugly road through the idyllic sandy beaches that surround it. So, in Jijoca, a town roughly 1.5 hours from Jeri, everyone disembarks to continue the journey in an off road vehicle. Ours was a jolly looking superbus called a Jardineira that has huge open windows to admire the scenery of palm trees and sand dunes along the coastal trajectory. We were lucky enough to make this part of the journey at sunset - a marvellous introduction to what we were about to experience.



As we rumbled into Jeri itself, the Jardineira barely fitted through the tiny streets that were crammed with chic looking bars and pousadas. We arrived into the main square, to discover that Jericoacoara has no streets, the tiny town is built on sand itself. So off came the shoes, and they barely went back on all weekend. It was already dark but Jeri was aglow - not an agressive blaze that you find in cities, but a gentle light that peeped out of the windows of the restarants and hotels. We had already made our first friends on the bus, and we followed one, Luciana, (new bff) to the pousada she was staying in. We were blown away by what a gorgeously rustic place it was - all wooden panels and embroidered cushions, bookcases and board games, not to mention several hammocks to relax in, a standard feature of all Brazilian homes.




The owner, an incredible character infamous in Jeri, was a man called Itamar, who had a wonderful knack of making you feel at home. He had a broad smile, a big heart, and an eye for Nelson... but who doesn´t?! He treated all the guests like long lost friends, eating meals and playing backgammon as if he were just passing through himself.




We happened to turn up just as a music festival was getting underway, so our first job was to wander down to the beach along a succession of portable bars strung with tropical fruits, to where a huge stage had been erected.  The crowd came alive when a Samba band from São Paulo, Samba da Rainha took to the stage. They were an all female ensemble that really knew how to put on a show... I was sambaing in the sand like a mad woman to the pounding rhythms... it was what I imagine carnaval to be all about. After the show we decided to save ourselves for the following day, so went to bed nice and early... at 1am.

After a delcious breakfast of fruit, eggs and juice the next morning, we were quite dismayed that it began to rain. But, as this was our lucky weekend, after a couple of games of backgammon it had cleared up and we set out on a buggy ride - which is THE thing to do in Jeri. It takes you on an exhilarating journey along deserted beaches, sandy lanes and tiny villages, to two beautiful lakes. The first, Lagoa Azul, was our favourite. We took a boat across the crystalline waters to a bar where we could relax in a hammock, sip on coconut water and take a dip in the beautifully fresh water. It was as tranquil as could be, we could quite happily have stayed all day. The second, Lagoa Paraíso, does live up to its name, but was however a lot busier... and the restaurant was a rip off. But you can´t win 'em all I suppose.




It was soon time to head back to catch the sunset on the Duna Pôr do Sol - which was an incredible sight as you actually watched the sun descend into the sea. Afterwards, we strolled along the beach to catch a Roda de Capoeira... it was the first I have seen in Brazil and I found it enchanting - it was so traditional and native - it was wonderful to be experiencing the real deal. That night the music festival wasn´t up to much so instead we headed to the only club - Planeta Jeri - which seems also to be owned by the illustrious Itamar. We played some pool, made some friends, sank a few caipirinhas and danced until the sun came up.

On Saturday we decided to make our own way to the Pedra Furada, a famous rock formation that is the symbol of Jeri. We couldn´t take the coastal route as I may have spent the morning asleep, and the tide was now well and truly in. So we took the route that lead us out of the town and up a mountain... It was quite a trek and we began to wonder if we had wandered completely off track. But when we caught sight of the Pedra Furada below... we scrambled down the incredibly steep slopes as quickly as could.




It was a marvellous sight, especially in the cool, late afternoon sun. We perched on some rocks to eat some well deserved sandwiches and admire the view.

Our luck didn´t end there, we managed to make it back in time to catch a showing of Ridley Scot's Robin Hood in an open air cinema on the beach. I didn't think it would be my cup of tea, and although the fake english accents grated on my nerves, it was quite a lovely film! I do enjoy watching things in English because it means my brain can finally relax. And I don't think theres anything better than being able to see the sea with a turn of your head.

Needless to say when Sunday lunchtime rolled around and it was time to leave, we were totally gutted. It was one of those moments that you know you can never live again, but it was so perfect you are almost happy to leave it there suspended in that moment of time. I beg anyone who lives in Ceará and hasn't yet been to Jeri to give Itamar a call make that 7 hour journey. It is so ridiculously worth it.

Thursday 14 October 2010

Canoa Quebrada

Canoa Quebrada was founded by accident when the Portuguese navigator Francisco Ayres da Cunha´s boat broke down when travelling along the North East Coast (hence the name, Broken Boat).  360 years on it is well known in Ceará as a bohemian party town ideal for a weekend getaway. As it was my birthday and (another) public holiday, we decided to get ourselves down there for a few days relaxation.

As you know, I´m a big fan of bussing it about. The bus to Canoa seemed to stop at every tiny town along the way, but we eventually got there. We disembarked onto a sandy street, lined with brightly coloured pousadas, eateries, shops selling beach ware and souvenirs – it was exactly the charming little nook I had hoped to find.


It is essentially one long road called Broadway, with little side streets branching off from it. Everywhere you look there is a tiny house offering home cooked meals and rustic bars offering beer for one pound.
The beach is set against an impressive backdrop of red sand dunes, the sight of which is nothing short of spectacular. You can wind your way down the dunes to the crystal clear sea, and even etch your name into them.



Along the beach you´ll find numerous barracas to quench your thirst and satiate your hunger. We enjoyed a particularly delicious fried fish in a shrimp sauce on my birthday. My general drink of choice is coconut water… but when I saw a cocktail bar being pulled along the beach by a donkey – I just couldn´t resist a Pina Colada served in a fresh pineapple. Although it was hugely overpriced, I felt the chap deserved my money for his entrepreneurial flair.



In the afternoons, after lunch, the town sleeps, as the shops shut and locals have a siesta. It’s a perfectly peaceful time of day, in which you can only hear the rush of the sea and the birds in the sky.  Later on, it´s worth making the hike up the Duna Pôr do Sol (Sunset dune) to watch the blistering sun fade, turning the sky from the red of the dunes to burnt orange and dusky pink.

On the weekends, Canoa comes to life again at night. The main street is filled with party goers, clutching plastic cups of caipirinha made by cunning locals who set up shop with a crate of ice and an array of alcohol on the side of the road. The soundtrack to Canoa is reggae, which encapsulates the relaxed atmosphere of the town. (I thought of you so much Tiffany!) Make your way down to Freedom bar on the beach just past midnight and you´ll be met with a marijuana fuelled luau that spills out of the wooden bar (aptly painted the colours of the Jamaican flag) and onto the surrounding sand, with a bonfire to give a comforting glow to the scene and Bob Marley to make you sway and sing. The clientele are a stock brand that sport surf shorts and dreadlocks, and look like they have never heard of the word stress. Sometimes I wonder if I should take a leaf from there book… but didn´t.



Canoa is a stunning sight, and a wonderful weekend break. I´m only gutted I won´t have time to go back… Next stop, Jericoacoara. 

Tuesday 12 October 2010

Half way there...

Today I am exactly half way through my time here in Brazil. In a way, it feels like the time is flying by, but in another it feels like I have been here forever. This whole business of going on an exchange is completely unique, and never ceases to suprise you, no matter how many times you go (this is my third). I say this, because you invariably spend months waiting to jet off, dreaming of your escape and planning your adventures. Yet, when you are there, there will always be a part of you that longs for home. This inconvenient paradox often leaves me confused. How can I want both things at once?

Brazil has brought me everything I had hoped it would. Fantastic new friends, beautiful new scenery, culture, music, dance, parties, beaches, sunshine, and the day to day living in an entirely new reality. But there are times when I miss my family, speaking my language, being surrounded by my old friends who know me inside out... even the seasons and my big comfy bed. I´m told that the middle of your exchange is always the hardest, because you really start to miss things - I can vouch for that being very true. I have every reason to be euphorically happy here, but the last week or so I´ve been suffering from a lot of saudade. Saudade is a Portuguese word that has no translation, but means sadness, longing, nostalgia, dating from the times of the Portuguese discoveries, when men left their families on the other side of the world and travelled to the New World.

But now I´ve reached the peak of my exchange. The hardest part of adjusting to a new life is over. This period will pass and I'll be back on the up. To mark this moment, something incredible happened last night. It rained. After three entire months without seeing so much as a cloud, the heavens opened for a few minutes and quenched the dry earth. So I´ll take it as nature's own centrefold in my Brazilian story so far. I'm looking forward to seeing what the second half of the story will bring.

Wednesday 6 October 2010

Icaraí

Saturday afternoons should be spent at the beach. Preferably one you´ve not visited before. Icaraí is just before Cumbuco, and is charming in a totally different way: it is completely rugged and almost deserted.





Despite the odd kite surfer and fisherman, it was just us, picking our way through jagged rocks and admiring an array of sea creatures and shells washed up on the shore. We found a jelly fish...



a tuna...



and mussels...



Personally, I´m a bit squimish when it comes to fish... but it was interesting to peer at them from a safe distance.

The highlight of the afternoon was the most spectacular lunch I think I have ever had. Fresh pargo, with salad, chips and the most delicious baião so far, complete with cheese and onion. Oh yes.

Thursday 30 September 2010

Baile Funk

Ever since our first party in São Paulo dorms, we have been a bit obsessed with funk. Shortly put, it's Brazilian ghetto music that was born in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro that has steadily been rising in popularity since the mid 90s. Funk is a fantastic example of music that is by the people, for the people, with no frills or pretence, just grimy beats! The backbone is an electric beat that samples the same few songs and sounds like it was composed on your brothers old keyboard. The raps are the filthiest you have ever heard (thats right, they would rival anything by 50 Cent or Snoop Dog) but luckily for me, I don´t understand the majority of whats being said. I had a look on youtube to find a decent example of what I´m talking about... and this is the least offensive clip I could find! Cabecinha by Bonde do Tigrão - this is what you would call a 'goldie oldie' of the funk genre and has been our theme song since we arrived. Para na posição! (You be amazed at how many lessons we manage to sneak that phrase into).


Being in the North East you don´t get a lot of funk, so when we heard there was a theme party this weekend at a run down adult cinema in the city centre, we were all over it. The location was perfect, the whole point of funk is that it is down right dirty. We paid our R$ 11 (four quid) and had our pinky nail painted red. We passed through a curtain into an outside yard full of funkeiros, drinking, dancing, sweating, singing, having an absolute blast. You can tell it´s good party if I decide not to drink - I stayed on Coca Cola and still danced til dawn. Our group was the same melting pot of nationalities and sexualities - which I absolutely love. Highlight of the night? Dancing our own routine to Cabecinha, of course.

Can´t wait til December to experience a baile funk in Rio...

Porto Das Dunas

My friend Cristiano has expressed his dismay at not yet being mentioned in my blog. So heres a snippet from a Sunday afternoon when he invited us to his beach house to try our hands (or feet) at Sand Boarding. There were some experts among us, Cristiano included, but we were mainly novices with a great fear of falling. It wasn´t like SkiBunda where you started off on your bum anyway, this was the real deal...

We were a jolly old bunch of internationals and Brazilians - I do enjoy being in such a mixed environment all the time...


I must admit I was pretty tired that afternoon (details on excellent parties to come later) and I knew that what goes down must come up, so only opted to go down once, seated, with Yamil, clinging on for dear life. Needless to say we ended up in a heap half way down the dune and I´m pretty sure I landed on his head. Sorry, Yamil.

Russian stunner Alisa turned out to be a natural... Nelson wasn't too bad... Bruno wasn't too good... but the prize of the day HAS to go to Ezequiel. Check this out.


We were all crunching sand in our mouths for the rest of the afternoon. We headed back to Cristiano´s house for a relaxing dip in the pool. (Again I refrained, I´ve been eating far too much rice, meat and ice cream so the bikini is on hold for a while) Thank you for a lovely afternoon Cristiano, we can always rely on you to bring people together and have a great time. And to dance to forró on the side of the road and in mini markets, which is what I particularly love about you (",)

Friday 24 September 2010

Cumbuco Beach

The most attractive beaches in Ceará lie just a little outside of Fortaleza. I´m quite a fan of venturing out on public transport - it seems to make a trip that little more unpredicatable and exciting. I still manage to get lost in London even when I have TFL website at my fingertips, but somehow when abroad I have a remarkable knack for getting around. You can catch a minibus to Cumbuco from outside North Shopping and in 45 minutes you´ll be a in a quaint little beach town awash with market stalls and beachside restaurants.


There are several reasons why I like Cumbuco - for a start it's not as busy as the city beaches, so it's an ideal place to relax and disconnect from the troubles of the week. You won´t be bombarded by someone selling something every minute like you are at Praia de Futuro... infact you be left in so much peace you often have to go and find a waiter to bring you your beer! You can relax at a shady table, or position yourself on a sun lounger to soak up the rays - the latter is ofcouse my favourite.

Cumbuco beach offers several activities that very in price and commitment levels. Kite Surfers fill the sea and sky... but we have not been brave enough to give that a go just yet. Donkeys plod up and down the sands, but we havea been content with just taking our photos with them (we named one Shakira). But when we were offered a ride on a Jangada for 5 reis each... we couldn´t resist. We donned a life jacket each and headed out for a 45 minute ride.



When in a car or boat, you are often asked if you would like a journey 'com emoção' (with excitment). We ofcourse answered yes and plunged into the water, bobbing and swaying and being periodically soaked by the salty waves. It was so invigourating being out in the open water! The men who steered the boat were the quintessential fishermen, with hardened skin and missing teeth - their jolly dispositions contradicting their impoverished lives. One treated us to a song, and we repaid him with our own repetoire of Lady Gaga, Sidney Magal and Bonde do Tigrão.



When you can no longer see land, you are allowed to jump off and have a swim in the sea. As I can't swim I didn´t fancy this option, I stayed safely on board and took the photos. However everyone insists I can´t drown with a life jacket on, so maybe next time I´ll venture in.



After lunching on delicious fresh fish, chips and baião de dois, we set off for another adventure, SkiBunda. Literally meaning Bum Skiing, you rent a wooden board and go careering down a sand dune on your bum. We could have paid 150 reis for a buggy to take us along the coast and up the dunes, but being the savvy travellers we are, we asked a local if there was a cheaper option. There was a mini bus for one real, so off we went.

The trek up the dune was hard work, but the view was incredible.


We were relieved to finally reach the friendly barraca at the top...



After a refreshing coconut water it was time to hit the slopes! Lázaro was brave enough to go first.



It really was hilariously good fun! Unfortunately I did fall the first time, but got the hang of it after that. The trick is to keep your ankles together and your knees apart. Duda on the other hand tumbled everytime - she blamed her sand board.

The trek back up the dune with your sand board in hand was pretty exahausting, but even so we went down several times. At the bottom of the slopes there was a little lake where you could cool off, full of children splashing around. When I arrived Jamil was giving a Spanish lesson in there - you can take the teacher out of the classroom....

It was truly a perfect day. Cumbuco is just the right distance for a day trip out of town. It has become our favourite haunt on weekends and feriados. Speaking of which, when is our next visit hien?!

Thursday 23 September 2010

EduAction – Revelations and Complications

EduAction has now been underway for a month and we have started to get a handle on this teaching business. After the first weeks of getting lost on the way to school and getting home without a voice or ounce of energy, we have gradually adjusted to our new and demanding routine. We have begun to feel at home in the schools, build relationships with the teachers and pupils, and find our place in the community.

The first required topic of the project was culture. After presenting our own culture and getting the children to recognize their own, we travelled the rest of the world with the students. Class 2 was entitled ‘Cultural Differences’ and was an interactive extravaganza, if I do say so myself.  We began by brainstorming the word culture to remind the kids what we talked about last lesson. Then we show the following advert from HSBC…



This video always guaranteed a laugh! Their eyes fall out of their heads when they see what the Chinese eat.  It got them thinking about how it’s not only sport, dance, and music etc. that is different in each culture, but even the way people behave.

Next we gave a Power Point presentation that showed clothes, food, transport, houses and parties from all over the world. The key to a good Power Point presentation?  The element of surprise.  They are amazed to see African women with shaved heads, or Muslims in a burka. They crumple their faces at an Asian insect market and insist eating with chopsticks is impossible. They shriek with laughter to see people living in igloos and travelling by rickshaw, and would like to join in with the Holi Festival in India or La Tomatina in Spain. The message of the presentation was that the way we live/eat/dress/transport ourselves/have fun is completely different, yet we all do these things!

Next we divided into 3 groups and did a rotation of 3 activities. One group learnt how to greet people in other cultures. From India to Japan to Italy to Papua New Guine, they learnt what to say and do. My favourite was Zambia – they say ´Muli Shani’ and shake hands whilst holding their right elbow.



Another group learnt about religion – this was my baby. I printed explanations, images of important people, symbols, place of worship and festivals for each religion and we worked together finding which cards belongs to which religion. They start off without a clue, which makes it all the more satisfying at the end of the activity when they have learnt which religion prays 5 times a day, which religion has many Gods, which religion has none, and the difference between Judaism and Christianity.



The final activity is a study of discrimination. We discuss what the word means and the different forms it can take and then play a game (which always gets them interested). They stand in a line and are given cards with characteristics. We tell them they are no longer themselves, but the person on the cards. Next, we call out instructions, such as ´those who do not like football, take 2 steps back’. They end up spread out, but with one or two people far away from the group. We ask what has happened and sometimes they are quick to realize it is an example of discrimination. We ask how the people left at the back felt – the answer more or less every time was ‘awful!’ We explain that when we separate and exclude people for being different we make them feel bad… and we are all guilty of doing this. We make a promise not to do it anymore… by putting our hands in the centre and shouting I PROMISE!

The best activity however has to be one we only did with the older students, to demonstrate cultural difference. It’s called The Albatross, and we learnt it at an AIESEC session on cultural shock. Nelson and I wait in the classroom, with sheets draped over our clothes. I kneel on the floor and he sits in a chair. Other chairs form a circle around us, and in the centre we place a cup of water and a plate of biscuits. Ezequiel ushers the children in and told the girls to sit on the floor and take their shoes off, and the boys to sit on the chairs and keep their shoes on. He is of course met with some disdain, but that is all part of the plan. He welcomes them to the Albatross culture, and tells them they were invited to have breakfast with us. We play some tranquil music and begin. First, I feed Nelson some biscuits, and feed the other boys. Then, I kneel, take a biscuit myself and pass the plate to the girls, who also serve themselves. I return to my place my Nelson and bow to the ground. Then I feed Nelson from a cup of water, then all the other boys. I then kneel, drink myself, and pass the cup for the girls to drink. Once more I bow to the ground and we both leave the room.

When we return we ask them what they think of the Albatross culture. We couldn´t have hoped for better answers. ‘The women are slaves!’ ‘The men are superior!’ ‘The woman is not respected!’ We go on like this for a while. Afterwards, we explain the reality of the Albatross culture. In the Albatross culture, the earth is sacred. It is what gives us water, food and life. The Albatrossian people believe that as the woman is also the giver of life, she is also sacred. Therefore, she is the only one privileged enough to walk on the ground in bare feet, to sit on the ground, and touch the food the earth brings. If the woman does not feed the man, he dies of hunger. So, who depends on whom? Who is superior in this culture? Were your assumptions about this culture wrong? What does this teach us? That we cannot apply our own way of thinking to another culture, and that we cannot judge another culture before truly understanding it. 

When the activites go well, the children react as if a secret of life has been revealed to them. Watching the realization of how wrong they had been about the Albatross culture dawn on their faces was a delight. Another group that is a little hard work worked on discrimination with me, and when I explained the meaning of the game they had just played, the naughtiest boy in the group had a light bulb moment. ‘Ohhhhh. I get it!’ He exclaimed. He finally understood what it was to discriminate. He then turned to another boy in the group that I know is given a hard time for being effeminate and said, ‘Hey… I´m sorry for being like that, ok?’ It truly brought a lump to my throat, and made the entire fortnight worthwhile.

It’s often the ones that are a pain that enjoy the lesson the most. And trust me, some are a pain! Today I confiscated a box of matches that a boy had lit in the classroom. Other times I have been exasperated with the way they talk; “Don´t these fans work?! I´m dying of heat!” The way to ask, my dear girl, is, “It´s really hot in here, could we turn on the fans please?” But there I go again with my ethnocentricity. We have to remember that these children have tough lives. A lot of them don´t have parents who teach them to behave nicely. They live in a poor neighborhood and have more responsibilities than kids back home – several have brought their younger siblings along to class because they don´t have anyone to leave them with and others tidy up after the lessons beautifully, through what I assume is force of habit from home. Lack of education and support at home is glaringly apparent – in one class we have a heavily pregnant girl who can be no more than 14. She sat apart from the others on the sidelines, her swollen belly embarrassing her into silence. During the discrimination activity she almost mumbled an answer, but quickly shrank back and shook her head when I asked what she had said. But her confidence must have grown, because by the end of the lesson she managed to answer a question and give us a smile.

Two of the four schools we teach in swiftly became our favourites. Adauto Ferreira Lima, where we teach on Tuesdays is the smallest and best organized of all the schools. 



The head teacher, Eliseuma is a neat little lady with a cool head and a strong will. In contrast her second in command, Clea, is a towering presence with a gruff voice and a heart of gold. Together they have welcomed the project with open arms and are doing their best to accommodate us. We have our own classroom with air conditioning (an unheard of luxury in Maracanaú) and we have a helper, Daniel who sets up their (somewhat dodgy) projector for us. We pay the equivalent of one pound to have lunch with the teachers in the staff room, which is invariably chicken as we are always there on a Tuesday! There is always a little something sweet for afters like a slice of Doce de Goiaba (thick, sweet jelly made from fruit) or Doce de Leite.

Our other favourite is Rui Barbosa, where we teach on Wednesdays. Although it is somewhat more chaotic and haphazard, it is still a wonderful school. Each classroom has a name such as ´Peace’ or ‘Justice’ and inside there is a picture of a leader that represents this quality such as Gandhi or Martin Luther King, and one of their famous phrases. At Rui Barbosa we have the luxury of a huge projection screen, a huge space to work in groups at tables, and students with never ending enthusiasm. During break and lunch we are victims to a friendly bombardment from children of all ages, wanting photos and hugs… even autographs! 



The head teacher Isabel enjoys having us around, although she does sometimes get the wrong end of the stick when organizing things, or forget to impart vital information (like a dance show kicking off in the middle of our lesson!) But all in all it’s a lovely place to be.

However - no social project is easy. All involved begin with the best intentions, but are bound to encounter difficulties along the way. I was fully prepared for EduAction to be the same and unfortunately in the other two schools we have come across some stumbling blocks.

We are directed by the Secretary of Education in Maracanaú, who had a clear idea of how they wanted to the project run. Firstly, our class would be extra-curricular, and therefore optional. Secondly, to teach the largest number of students possible, we would teach the same lesson over a period of two weeks, so each student would have a lesson once a fortnight. Now, I’m a highly organized person, but I think that even when I was 11 I would have had difficulty getting my head around this system. To complicate matters, Brazilians enjoy putting public holidays in the middle of the week, rendering the rest of the week useless as schools and companies tack on extra days holidays either side. So matters got even more confused. The students of Walmiki (Mondays) and Ana Beatriz (Thursdays) never really got the hang of what was going on. It´s a real shame, because I truly believe it´s not down to a lack of interest on behalf of the kids. The teachers insist they passed on the correct information to the children but that they are truly demotivated and have no interest in anything.

Walmiki is a small school for a lot of students. We teach in a room that is half staff room – half classroom, which gives you an idea of how pushed for space they are. The head teacher is very young, new to her job but doing her utmost. It’s situated in the Industrial District, close to the huge market CEASA where all fruit and veg coming to Fortaleza stops. She told us that many of the student´s families live off the scraps from this market, and many work there painfully long hours.  The students who do come along to the lessons enjoy them a lot… so much so they come back every week (It´s the same lesson guys! Oh…can we stay anyway?!) And we do believe that the school did all they could, and it’s now up to us to have a Marketing Blitz in the coming week. With an Art Workshop and a Global Village up our sleeves, I´m confident our number of students will grow again.

Ana Beatriz on the other hand, we feel is a lost cause. Yes, it’s a tough neighbourhood, yes the kids are difficult. But they truly did not have the capacity to receive the project. It’s a brand new school in which 3 smaller schools were combined. It was inaugurated earlier this year and guess what… it´s an absolute nightmare. It’s a spacious building with 2 floors and wide patios – something which these kids are not used to. So what do they do? Spend every possible moment running and screaming in the corridors, up and down stairs, banging on doors and generally making a nuisance of themselves. The head teacher is constantly drained from shouting at one and another, she has not had time to gain control of her new territory. Again, the students who do attend the lessons are adorably interested, we only feel sorry that they don´t have bigger, more active classes. So we are looking into the possibility of mixing the classes together and teaching one mega class. We will get there in the end, there is no room for failure in anything I undertake!

We still have two more full months to go, and plenty more to give. Next up, the Environment and Social Responsibility… 

Monday 13 September 2010

My Host Family

I´d always liked the idea of living with a host family abroad. I think it is such a beautiful thing that a family could open up their home, their lives, to accept a total stranger and look after them like a son or daughter. When I came to Brazil I knew I wanted to live with a family - that way I could practice my Portuguese every day, eat typical food and learnt to live like a Brazilian. I was over the moon when I heard I had been allocated a family, and started to get to know my host brother, Rafael, straight away.

The best news was he was very excited to have me. He told me online while I was still back in England that he had already prepared my room that I had internet (hurrah!). It seemed like an eternity before we actually met in person, but as he drove me home, we had no trouble chatting away, and I knew we were going to be good friends. He is only  year younger than me, and studies Advertising at Uni. He likes football, rock music and raves... the latter may not be to my taste but the other two make for good conversation! He just took his first trip out of Brazil, so has been bitten by the travelling bug - so we have something else in common.

Rafael lives with his Mum, Fátima, who was apparently very worried about what she would feed me (What do English people eat! She won´t like what we have!). She was so eager to meet me the morning after I arrived (she was asleep when we got in the previous night) that she burst into my room at 7am ´Where is this girl! I´m dying to meet her!!´ I knew that I would love her from that moment on!

His Dad Luís is super laid back - he works in another city, so only stays now and again. This means that my Host Mum is actually very glad of some extra company on weeknights when Rafael is studying. Sometimes I come home from school and collapse into the armchair beside her, and we chat away until 10pm without even realising. She´s interested in everything, how things are in England and what I think about this that and the other. She thinks its funny that I eat ceral for breakfast and that I put jam on my tapioca. I think its funny that Rafael sleeps in a hammock and doesn´t know how to use the washing machine!!!! But there you go - culture exchange is what we all signed up for.

When Rafael´s Dad is around I like to do a little something all together - the first weekend I made an apple crumble and custard! I think they liked it... it was a bit too sugary due to a lack of scales so I guessed the quantities (its part of my new carefree, Brazilian attitude). They certainly had a lot of fun with the idea there was an English girl in their house making dessert.


The next time I bought a bottle of Argentinian wine... I absolutely love red wine and am really missing it here... Brazilian wine is very bitter and dry. I wondered if they would like what I chose - but it was gone within half an hour. Everyone was suitably jolly, discussing the monarchy and government in England... next time I´ll buy two.

I almost forgot the most annoying member of the family - Zeek, the dog. A Brazilian home is apparently not complete without one! When I arrived for the first time Rafael asked guiltily 'You don't like animals do you?". But luckily he´s only a tiny Yorkshire Terrier, that deep down just wants to be loved - that´s why he barks like a maniac when you leave the house (not ideal at 6am on my day off) and follows you around when you get home, licking your feet. I just have to make sure I keep my bedroom door firmly shut - or he is sure to wee on my bed.



Although nothing can compare to your own family (am missing you a lot people, and think of you all the time) living with a host family has to be the next best thing. I´ve got people to look out for me, to keep me company, to worry about what I eat and where I go! It´s comforting, to belong somewhere, and know that whatever I need, they´ll help me. It´s a debt that is unable to be paid... I just have to hope they will come to England some day.

Sunday 12 September 2010

It´s not you, it´s M.E.

Side note...

3 years ago, I was very ill with what is known as Chronic Fatigue Syndrome - or more commonly M.E. It's a condition that causes severe tiredness that doesn't improve with rest, caused in my case by repeated throat infections over a period of 6 months. It's not like any tiredness you´ve ever felt before - I used to describe it as having an iron sheet laid on top of you, no matter how much you wanted to, you just could not get up. It's actually what stopped me going to Brazil in the first place, on a University exchange to João Pessoa. It pretty much broke my heart - I had to leave University and spend a very miserable 6 months at home.



Luckily, I'm not one to let bad times get the better of me. My family and friends were wonderfully supportive and I gradually fought back. I managed to go on an exchange to Portugal the following year and graduate the same year as my friends. And now I´m living the dream of being in the North East of Brazil. Better late than never, eh?

Nowadays I'm almost capable of leading a completely normal life. I can do a full days work, go to the gym, go clubbing and travel - just not all at the same time. I still have to be selective about what I do, and what I don't; M.E doesn´t control me anymore, but I still have to control M.E. So you may notice I'm always the first person to sneak off to bed at a house party. Or that I turn down invitations citing fatigue. I promise you, it's not because I´m dull or lazy or not interested. I´d love nothing more than to do everything, but I simply can't. I can´t risk falling ill again.

Working with children here is so much fun, but also pretty draining, even for those in tip top health condition! So I need to take it easy on the weekends if I'm to last until December.

I found a fantastic analogy of what it's like to live with an illness. It´s called The Spoon Theory, by Christine Miserando and you can read it here:

http://www.butyoudontlooksick.com/articles/written-by-christine/the-spoon-theory-written-by-christine-miserandino/

This weekend I was out of spoons, but now I´ve got plenty for next week :)

Thursday 2 September 2010

Kids say the funniest things...

"So, are you going home to England and then coming back for the lesson on Monday?"

"Oooooooooh Tia will you adopt me? Kidnap me and take me to England!"

Me: Why did Henry VIII have 6 wives?
Student: One for every day of the week, then Sunday was for rest.

Ezequiel: Does anyone know who Che Guevara was?
Student: A footballer.

Ezequiel: Can you name any important political figures from Argentina?
Student: Eva Peron. And her Dad, Juan Peron.

Me: Who is the Prime Minister of England?
Student: David....David...
Me: *Enthusiastic head nodding*
Student: David Beckham.

Student to us: Are you guys brothers and sisters?

Monday 30 August 2010

EduAction - Maracanaú

So the real reason I´m in Brazil, is to take part in a nationwide education project that is present in 5 cities across Brazil; Porto Alegre, São José dos Campos, Soracaba, Recife and now... Maracanaú, Ceará. It is a Corporate Responsability iniciative financed by the steel manufacturing giant Gerdau that aims to bring the themes Multiculturalism, Sustainability, Social Responsability and Entrepreneurism to Brazilian public schools. 


The Brazilian school system is divided between public and private schools. Suffice to say that those who attend public schools have much poorer chances in life. Many only send their children because they are guaranteed to receive a meal there. Their parents work long hours and they have little hope of breaking out of their cycle, their city. So we bring the world to them. We open their eyes to a whole range of issues they never thought they could be a part of. And they absolutely love it!






Maracanaú is 16km from central Fortaleza and often described as it´s poor relation. The urbanization of the capital spread and many industries built factories in Maracanaú, resulting in a huge concentration of inhabitants in an area poorly equipped to deal with the demands for healthcare, housing and infrastructure. Today there are an estimated 17,318 families living in poverty in Maracanaú. 


Considering my culture shock when I came to Fortaleza, Maracanaú was even further off my radar. Dusty plains stretch out for miles, cows meander along dirt tracks, the higgeldy piggeldy houses are bolted shut with wrought iron gates... it´s not the safest place to hang about. But the schools are alive, like little pockets of activity in a strangely deserted neighbourhood.






I was pretty nervous of them at first... I had visions of classrooms that were falling apart, kids running riot and being disinterested in anything I had to say. But I couldn´t have been more wrong! The schools seem to be the pride of the town. Their means are small, but the local government seems to be doing its best to provide these schools with the basics, and even a little more. Most of the schools have a little library in which we teach, with a working projector or DVD player, so the subjects we teach can really come to life.


What struck me most is the pleasant atmosphere the schools have. Everywhere you look there is a mural to welcome you to the school...






or an inspirational phrase....












The school uniform is a simple but effective...








... and the kids are immaculately behaved! Lets hope it stays that way...


I´m working with two fantastic boys, one from Argentina and one from Colombia. Our first lesson was a presentation of our cultures, followed by a discussion of what culture means to them. We talked about their culture and they produced some beautiful collages of which they were all very proud.






The funniest thing is how they treat us like celebrities... we´ve actually given out autographs! It´s customary for younger children to call their teachers "Tia" and "Tio" (Aunty and Uncle) which is pretty adorable. They want to hang about at the end chatting and taking photos, asking us all about our countries (Do you have computers in Argentina?). Some even attend the class again because they thought it was so much fun. 


I needn´t have worried whether this project would really make a difference. After only a few days I can see that we have bought something new and exciting into their lives. Even when my alarm goes off at 5.45am and I struggle to open my eyes, the thought of spending the day with such delightful children gets me out of bed and onto that yellow bus to Maracanaú.

Sounds of Ceará

If there´s one thing Fortaleza isn´t...it´s quiet.

It didn´t take me long to realize that Brazil as a whole is in an eternal state of construction. The World Cup and Olympics are fast approaching, so it´s time to finish that metro that has been 10 years in the making (not even an exaggeration!) and improve the rugged roads. The clang and drill of this work seems to be inescapable when I´m asleep... but when I´m up and about the sites are deserted... and boys play football in the closed off lanes.

The Presidential Elections are also soon upon us. How do Brazilians disseminate propaganda? Why, by strapping sound systems to a car emblazoned with photographs of the candidate of choice and playing jingles at an ear splitting level whilst circulating the city, of course!



When at home, if the television or radio is on, it must be on loud - regardless of whether there is another set blaring out from a different corner of the house. In the streets, dogs yap, women gossip with their neighbours, and scold their disobedient children.

It´s all in good humour though - the noise is just another facet to the Brazilian´s unshakeably cheerful lifestyle, it seems to go unnoticed as they bustle about their daily lives. I just tend to turn the volume down when noone´s looking.

Monday 16 August 2010

Friday Night Forró

Learning the local dances was top of my to do list in Brazil. So when I was invited to go to Kangalha – the home of forró on Friday nights in Fortaleza, I was more than keen to give it a go. Little did I know that it would be one of the richest cultural experiences of my trip so far...

As we approached the entrance I was astounded at the throng of people jostling to get in. Everyone seemed to have been waiting all week for this moment – girls looked glam in shorts and high heels; men looked fresh in crisp shirts and smart shoes. As we passed through the wooden turnstiles we found ourselves in a huge open air arena, already alive with revellers. Barmen carried plastic tables above their head and set them down randomly to accommodate new arrivals. Chairs were not necessary; everyone was already on their feet. The first band was already playing on the stage, filling the air with the unmistakable rhythm of forró.

At first, I was content to watch as the place filled up, in awe of the couples already in full swing, stepping from side to side, their bodies fused tightly together, swaying their hips the way only Brazilians can. I wanted to learn to feel the beat the way they did… but I had no idea how to, I might as well have been carrying a watermelon.

After meeting up with our group of friends and a few large shots of cachaça, I was ready to give it a go. The place was now packed and the crowd was undulating to the beat, singing at the tops of their voices. Everyone was drunk on forró, the atmosphere was electric. Leandro, a self confessed forrozero and the friend who had extended the invitation was my first teacher – the basic side to side movement wasn´t hard to master, but making my hips move in the right direction was! Once I had started I didn´t want to stop and was soon dancing with all and sundry, loosening up, learning to turn… often getting my arms in a muddle… but loving every minute all the same.

The music went on and on, but I didn´t notice the hours pass. The bands got louder, the crowd got livelier and the dancing got wilder. The edges of the arena were lined with food stalls, clay pots steamed with crème de galinha, arroz and feijão. The girls loos were chaos – there was no room for privacy – doors opened and shut with urgency, girls climbed over each other to reach the mirrors and soap, all eager to get back outside to the party.

The sky above the area was gradually getting lighter when we decided to head home. My feet were black, my legs were aching, my head was spinning, and I had had an amazing time. I truly felt like I had been slap bang in the middle of North Eastern culture and will be going back for more very soon.

Sunday 15 August 2010

Culture shock

After four years of studying Brazilian culture, I thought I was pretty clued up on how my life would be out here. I already spoke good Portuguese (albeit with a strong European accent), I already adored Brazilian food and I was more than familiar with the history, literature and music. I thought I was the epitome of open mindedness, heading somewhere where I´d take to the everyday life like a duck to water. But nothing can prepare you for the day to day challenges when you find yourself over 4,000 miles from home.

Funnily enough, it´s the little things that you don´t think twice about at home that prove to be the most exasperating. Why must you buy a card to use a payphone here? Why can´t I take money out of any ATM? And why don´t supermarkets stock tampons?  I suddenly found myself in a very different environment – one that I couldn´t control.

Control is the key word here; I´m a bit of a freak for it, ask any of my friends! I like order, organization, punctuality and efficiency. But what I´ve always considered to be a virtue in England, has become the most frustrating vice in Brazil. Here, there are no plans, and if there are, they will be changed at least twice. If a meeting is scheduled for 6pm, it is perfectly acceptable to arrive at 7pm, if at all. You can spend an age wandering around without actually going anywhere; hours can be spent talking without any conclusion being reached.

Time and time again I found myself angrily asserting how much easier life was in England. That´s when I realised that I was being the exact opposite of open minded. I was being thoroughly ignorant. Ethnocentric, if you will. I was getting worked up because I considered this behaviour to be wrong. But it isn´t, it´s just different. Culturally different. Isn´t that what I´d come here to experience? Would things be any fun if everything operated like it does in Europe?

With lack of organization comes great spontenaeity. The most wonderful experiences I´ve had so far have happened by simply strolling into the right place at the right time. I´ve seen a traditional forró band play in a tiny bar crammed with locals sipping Skol.


I´ve seen a band of dancing cangaceiros, turning and stamping and brandishing their rifles.



I´ve seen the local samba school rehearsing in a park...





 ...and taken an impromptu ride on a jangada at Cumbuco beach.




These serendipitous moments are all the more exciting as they´ve not been planned. No wonder the people here lead such stress free lives, they´re not slaves to timetables or changing seasons. Here, they live by the motto that ´vai dar tudo certo´- it will all work out. There is always tomorrow, and the sun will undoubtedly be shining. So I´m trying to unlearn my inflexible ways and just go with the Brazilian flow.