Jericoacoara

If Canoa Quebrada is a fine Chardonnay, Jericoacoara is ice cold Veuve Cliquot served in crystal flutes. From the moment we set out, we felt our trip was blessed... it truly was 4 days in paradise. It involved a bus, as always, that took us north past tiny farms and parched scrubland, glittering lakes and rocky peaks. Jeri is infact inaccessible by bus, a fact which I adored, as no one seems to have the heart to build an ugly road through the idyllic sandy beaches that surround it. So, in Jijoca, a town roughly 1.5 hours from Jeri, everyone disembarks to continue the journey in an off road vehicle. Ours was a jolly looking superbus called a Jardineira that has huge open windows to admire the scenery of palm trees and sand dunes along the coastal trajectory. We were lucky enough to make this part of the journey at sunset - a marvellous introduction to what we were about to experience.

As we rumbled into Jeri itself, the Jardineira barely fitted through the tiny streets that were crammed with chic looking bars and pousadas. We arrived into the main square, to discover that Jericoacoara has no streets, the tiny town is built on sand itself. So off came the shoes, and they barely went back on all weekend. It was already dark but Jeri was aglow - not an agressive blaze that you find in cities, but a gentle light that peeped out of the windows of the restarants and hotels. We had already made our first friends on the bus, and we followed one, Luciana, (new bff) to the pousada she was staying in. We were blown away by what a gorgeously rustic place it was - all wooden panels and embroidered cushions, bookcases and board games, not to mention several hammocks to relax in, a standard feature of all Brazilian homes.

The owner, an incredible character infamous in Jeri, was a man called Itamar, who had a wonderful knack of making you feel at home. He had a broad smile, a big heart, and an eye for Nelson... but who doesn´t?! He treated all the guests like long lost friends, eating meals and playing backgammon as if he were just passing through himself.

We happened to turn up just as a music festival was getting underway, so our first job was to wander down to the beach along a succession of portable bars strung with tropical fruits, to where a huge stage had been erected.  The crowd came alive when a Samba band from São Paulo, Samba da Rainha took to the stage. They were an all female ensemble that really knew how to put on a show... I was sambaing in the sand like a mad woman to the pounding rhythms... it was what I imagine carnaval to be all about. After the show we decided to save ourselves for the following day, so went to bed nice and early... at 1am.

After a delcious breakfast of fruit, eggs and juice the next morning, we were quite dismayed that it began to rain. But, as this was our lucky weekend, after a couple of games of backgammon it had cleared up and we set out on a buggy ride - which is THE thing to do in Jeri. It takes you on an exhilarating journey along deserted beaches, sandy lanes and tiny villages, to two beautiful lakes. The first, Lagoa Azul, was our favourite. We took a boat across the crystalline waters to a bar where we could relax in a hammock, sip on coconut water and take a dip in the beautifully fresh water. It was as tranquil as could be, we could quite happily have stayed all day. The second, Lagoa Paraíso, does live up to its name, but was however a lot busier... and the restaurant was a rip off. But you can´t win 'em all I suppose.

It was soon time to head back to catch the sunset on the Duna Pôr do Sol - which was an incredible sight as you actually watched the sun descend into the sea. Afterwards, we strolled along the beach to catch a Roda de Capoeira... it was the first I have seen in Brazil and I found it enchanting - it was so traditional and native - it was wonderful to be experiencing the real deal. That night the music festival wasn´t up to much so instead we headed to the only club - Planeta Jeri - which seems also to be owned by the illustrious Itamar. We played some pool, made some friends, sank a few caipirinhas and danced until the sun came up.

On Saturday we decided to make our own way to the Pedra Furada, a famous rock formation that is the symbol of Jeri. We couldn´t take the coastal route as I may have spent the morning asleep, and the tide was now well and truly in. So we took the route that lead us out of the town and up a mountain... It was quite a trek and we began to wonder if we had wandered completely off track. But when we caught sight of the Pedra Furada below... we scrambled down the incredibly steep slopes as quickly as could.

It was a marvellous sight, especially in the cool, late afternoon sun. We perched on some rocks to eat some well deserved sandwiches and admire the view.

Our luck didn´t end there, we managed to make it back in time to catch a showing of Ridley Scot's Robin Hood in an open air cinema on the beach. I didn't think it would be my cup of tea, and although the fake english accents grated on my nerves, it was quite a lovely film! I do enjoy watching things in English because it means my brain can finally relax. And I don't think theres anything better than being able to see the sea with a turn of your head.

Needless to say when Sunday lunchtime rolled around and it was time to leave, we were totally gutted. It was one of those moments that you know you can never live again, but it was so perfect you are almost happy to leave it there suspended in that moment of time. I beg anyone who lives in Ceará and hasn't yet been to Jeri to give Itamar a call make that 7 hour journey. It is so ridiculously worth it.